February 1, 2008
Went w/Cameron this AM to run errands in preparation for trip: new lock for truck cap, snacks and drinks, all in Bredasdorp. Oberved with some amusement that South African mufflers are differently named. We then headed off to Struis Bay (Struisbaii) and Agulhas to visit the southernmost point in South Africa. The monument there informs you that the Atlantic Ocean lies to the right of the line, the Indian Ocean to the left. Hard to differentiate with the naked eye. Handsome old lighthouse stands above the shore. On way to this town passed a low-lying swampy area, pond in middle, w/ various geese, white pelicans, terns, etc. Over course of drive also saw a steppe buzzard, yellow-billed kites, possibly a jackal buzzard and lots of blue cranes, SA’s national bird. These are elegant in everything they do – they can fly surreally slowly when contemplating landing in a field. Many ostrich as well, three springbok of which one was melanistic.
After Struis Bay we headed inland and then coastward again to De Mont, where we collected Aloe brevifolia seeds for Rhoda’s orders, a few Orbea variegata seeds (pets for me) and spotted a lone spectacular Cyrtanthus fergusoniae in a limestone-pavement fynbos area (quite large, drooping brilliant coral-red flws). We hiked out to photograph it – gorgeous. Then on to view another seaside resort (Arniston) with a group of original fisherman’s houses (Kassiesbai) – lovely little stone houses, stucco-covered and whitewashed, w/thatched roofs, all huddled within a small pebble’s throw of each other on the bluff above the beach. Picked up perishables on way home.
Spent PM around home – repacked – Cameron and Rhoda worked on seed orders. John Manning arrived just after tea-time, and we all sat around table and got acquainted. Cameron, Rhoda and John talked of species I know not – he has an excellent book out on the fynbos – and checked out the nursery. I left to walk around this section of Napier. A really lovely town, built on hills, most houses (including Cameron and Rhoda's) of this traditional stucco over brick or stone construction, and imposing creamy-colored Dutch Reformed church dominating the “downtown”. Most properties convincingly fenced or walled, several w/impressive dogs within (Rottweilers, mastiff mixes, e.g.). Wide streets almost all vacant; some yards planted with spectacular array of plants, including agaves, one Joshua tree, too many agapanthus (the hosta of SA?), gauras, gazanias, lavendars, one entire garden full of hybrid tea roses, aloes, strelitzias, large Sambucus nigra (why?), hederas, one Shasta daisy, cycads, the occasional palm, and a million things I cannot name. It would appear that almost anything will grow here if water is added.
Up at 3:30AM tomorrow and out by 4AM for the long drive to Somerset East (the object being to allow time to go up to Waainek Nature Preserve, where we went 2 years ago – fantastic place w/large population of Haemanthus carneus, a lovely species). Looking forward to seeing Glen Avon and the Browns again – little island of civilization.
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