Seneca Hill Perennials

February 4, 2008

Can’t decide whether ‘tis better to wait until morning, when I’m not pooped, or write in the evening when I’m worn out but closer to the material.  Suspect the latter.

Spent last night at Cameron’s family farm, in Cameron’s cottage, w/John, who makes a good brother substitute – quicker than me to prepare tea (no surprise), thoughtful without being overly solicitous, highly intelligent, and excellent informant/interpreter of things South African.  Were fed a lovely dinner of what seems to be the South African national farm dinner: lamb, steamed vegetables (carrots, courgettes, beans), rice, gravy, canned peaches w/icecream for desert.  At tonight’s stop we were fed mutton chops (I would have called it lamb), steamed vegetables (carrots, courgettes, beans), roast potatoes, gravy, an apple and crumb affair w/ice cream on top…a certain sameness is noted.  A couple of days ago, at Glen Avon, we had roast lamb, roast potatoes, beans, carrots, gravy, icecream w/ a little mincemeat-filled pie for desert…

Anyway, this AM Cameron headed to the  post office and John and I went out for a tramp in one of the farm fields.  Didn’t find anything of great interest, but just when Nigel and the three dogs joined us John flushed a little duiker buck from under a bush, and the poor animal stumbled as it bounded off, apparently injuring itself.  One of the dogs, an “Africanus” (an elegant brindled dog of Egyptian extraction, long ago), took off after the duiker; we could see the gap closing before they went over the hill, Nigel in hot pursuit, having no effect whatsoever on the dog; shortly we heard the duiker screaming; and a long time later Nigel and the now-chastened dog returned.  Nigel had freed the duiker, but said it was “very badly injured” –so that made for a somewhat depressing start.

We headed back to the farm, joined Cameron, and piled into a vintage-1970s pickup to head up to a different area of the farm.  Saw lots of things there: Encephalartos fredericii var guilelmi, Kniphofia uvaria (1, 2), Hypoxis hemerocallidea, Dicoma anomala, Aloe maculata, Ipomoea crassipes everywhere (stunning huge deep magenta trumpets on a small-leaved creeper), Boophone disticha, a few Gladiolus mortonius, and just gorgeous countryside.  Bounced back home, made lunch, packed, and headed off towards Sterkstroom, stopping at the Kei River to walk to some amazing San rock paintings (1,2) on Grey Craig Farm.  Used my hideous souvenir walking stick from Hogsback (yesterday) and found it surprisingly useful in negotiating the rocks we climbed  -am still feeling a bit vulnerable, i.e. aware of the potential fatal consequences, since smashing my face on a rock yesterday.  Then onward, via Queenstown, where we stopped for essential liquids (wine, beer, and gas) and precautionary cash (turns out our current stop actually takes credit cards).  Continued towards Sterkstroom, with magnificent dolerite (=diabase)-topped mountains all around, including the ones that we have now arrived at (Carnarvon Estate, a private game preserve and B&B.)  Arrived, dropped our luggage, and took off up the hills behind – weird dolerite mounds with large bare rock faces, dry grassland, lots of potential for self-destruction, long hot steep climb and not too much of interest to me other than the views back, which were magnificent.

Cameron and I made it to the top, and just as we headed down a different side C found the object of his quest, Strummaria gemmata, a tiny amaryllid only a mother could love.  John joined us shortly and the two of them spent about half an hour photographing these little 3” high wonders (maybe 4”), cooing, collecting herbarium specimens, and just generally being delighted.  I helped by holding a bush out of the way of the light, and carrying a baggie with three little specimens.  Then we descended, I ever-mindful of the rocks; by the time we got down I think all our legs had turned to jelly.  So back we went to our cottages at the Stagger Inn – lovely accommodations – J&C are in the lower cottage, I’m alone in the upper (vastly superior view and air flow) – washed up (slow process, given the shower I had to work with), then reassembled in the dining room to go over our images and get everything named, helped, or not, by glasses of lite beer (no-one drank more than half – all too tired as it was).  Ate the SA national farm dinner w/ a little wine, followed by a little tea, and said good-night.  Came back to find the sinkful of hand washing I had left soaking had created a small lake on the floor (sink leaks somewhere).  Completed the washing, primarily of my beloved white overshirt, by now a horrible sight, pushed the bathmat into a wet heap under the sink, and got to writing.

And now it is only 8:50 PM, and I will read Paul Theroux (Dark Star Safari) for a bit before turning in.